Sunday, 31 August 2014

The Importance of Exercise for the Growing Kangal Dog

The Importance of Exercise for the Growing Kangal Dog

Owners of working livestock guardian dogs usually don't need to be concerned about exercise for their dogs. Given enough fenceline to patrol each morning and evening, these dogs will give themselves steady, moderate exercise that will allow their bones and muscles to develop. A Kangal Dog does not need to run 20 miles a day in order to be in good condition, but they do need regular, steady exercise in order to be able to spring into fast action if an intruder threatens their livestock.
New owners of companion Kangal Dogs often ask, "How much exercise does my Kangal puppy need?" It's a good question. But a better question is, "How much and what kind of exercise does my puppy need?"

In finding the answer for the individual owner, it helps to understand three basic facts.
Firstly, Kangal Dogs were developed for a specific working niche in rural Turkey: to bond to, travel with, and protect a flock of sheep or goats from predators. Because the main threat to Turkish livestock is the wolf, Kangal Dogs were developed over the centuries to be very large, big-boned animals with strong muscles. Like all large breeds, Kangal Dogs mature slowly, and young dogs are subject to growth spurts--fits and starts in the development of their bones and muscles. Thus adolescent dogs sometimes go through periods in which their bones, muscles, and ligaments are growing at somewhat different rates--and what you see is a gangly, rather clumsy "teenager" that can run like the wind, and yet trip over his own big teenage feet. During these stages, even a very fit young dog is prone to athletic injuries.

Secondly, in Turkish villages, there are generally no fences for containing a curious Kangal puppy. From the time they can totter around, Kangal puppies begin to investigate their world. At first, that world might be the warm moist sheep barn, or a den dug by the bitch under a clump of trees. After the puppies feel confident moving about their immediate surroundings, they begin to steadily explore further and further away from the den. They romp and play with one another over long distances, clamber over stone walls and steep hillsides. Soon, they are accompanying their mother on her patrols around the house and then perhaps around the village. Depending on the time of year and the grazing schedule of the family's sheep, the pups may begin accompanying the sheep and adult dogs further and further out from their home. And all along the way, they explore and patrol, expanding their boundaries and moving along at a steady trot over greater and greater distances.

Thirdly, Kangal Dogs in Turkey are generally fed a diet that is rather low in nutrients and calories. They eat mostly barley mash, with the addition of table scraps, bones, stale bread, and maybe some occasional yoghurt, eggs or cheese. They get very little meat, and then only sporadically. Because their diet is low in protein, and especially in calories, they grow slowly, and on the whole do not get as large as Kangal Dogs in North America. Obese Kangal Dogs are just not to be found in Sivas province.

Now, compare this to the lifestyle of the average companion Kangal Dog. Most of them live indoors, and enjoy a close relationship with their human family. Most breeders consider a fenced yard as a prerequisite, so it is likely that the dog will also spend a fair amount of time in the yard--which is typically too small for the dog to actually "patrol" or to run in. Three strides and the Kangal Dog hits the fence in the average yard. In such a yard, a Kangal Dog will not truly exercise itself, although if there is another dog to play with they will be getting at least some exercise that way, especially in puppyhood.

Kangal Dogs can thrive in an urban or suburban setting, but the growing Kangal puppy needs plenty of exercise in the form of walks and slow jogs with their humans, on lead, and preferably on a natural surface if moving faster than a walk. It is important to increase the amount of exercise slowly, and not to push a growing puppy too hard. Large, big-boned dogs grow more slowly, and have a longer period during which their bones are growing and their joints are relatively elastic.

According to one orthopedic vet that I spoke to, the "weekend warrior" syndrome is a concern, because growing pups who basically lay around all week long with only short potty walks will not be in prime condition for a 3-hour hike on the weekend, or a wild romp in the dog park. During those growth spurts, when growing parts can be slightly out of synch, all it takes is one twist of the foot or knee, and you can have an athletic injury. This can happen even to young dogs that are kept in good condition, but the risk is correspondingly higher if the dog does not have adequately developed muscles and ligaments to hold those heavy, growing bones in place. To add insult to injury, Kangal Dogs will often limp on an injured limb for a while and then appear to be fine, or to show only intermittent lameness--but not when they're running and having a blast! So the owner may not even be aware that the pup is truly injured. Without proper R&R, the next romp in the park or leap down the steps can turn a sprained ligament into a torn one, potentially requiring surgery and a long recovery period.

Thus, during those critical growth period up to perhaps 18 months of age, it is important to keep a Kangal pup in solid condition without overdoing it. Dogs that haven't been exercised for a while should be brought gradually back into condition, and in the meantime should never be allowed to run at top speed off-leash, or to dash up and down steps, or to run across a slippery floor. Breeders can do their part by conducting health tests on breeding stock and puppies, and gradually selecting for stronger and tighter joints. This delicate balancing act will mean breeding dogs that are adapted for a more varied lifestyle than that which they experience in Turkey, while still maintaining the size, strength, conformation and temperament that is appropriate for our historic breed.

Finally, while monitoring exercise and soundness, the owner should also ensure that the growing dog gets good nutrition, but does not overfeed or use high-calorie, carbohydrate based commercial foods. A quality kibble for large breeds, fed in modest amounts to keep the dog slim, will help ensure that the young dog grows slowly to its full potential and in glowing health.

 The above excerpt is from KDCOA 

Saturday, 23 August 2014

Kangal Breed Standards

TURKISH SHEPHERD DOG KANGAL BREED STANDARD

 

Origin: Republic of Turkey
Patronage: Turkey
Date of publication of the original valid standard:
Utilization: Guard and shepherd dog
CLASSIFICATION F.C.I. :       
Group 2 Pinscher and Schnauzer - Molossoid breeds - Swiss Mountain and Cattle Dogs.               Section 2.2 Molossoid breeds, Mountain type without working trial.
 
THE BREED’S BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY :
According to the most accurate theory of the non-European  origin of the shepherd dogs, the Turkish Shepherd Dog Kangal most probably originates of the ancient livestock guardian dogs, which migrated with the nomadic tribes exercising primitive herding, from Central Asia to Anatolia from 10000 BC to 1300 AC. One of those clans, namely the Kayi Clan, was the founding fathers of the Ottoman Empire.

It is considered that the present shape of the Anatolian Shepherd Dog breeds including  the Kangal Shepherd Dog dates back to the times when the Ottoman Empire was established at the beginning of the 12th century. The Kangal Shepherd Dog has protected the sheep flocks bravely against any wild predators in the though the geography and under the though weather conditions of its homeland, namely Sivas and the east Anatolian region since then.
Today, in all parts  of Turkey, where the traditional sheep herding is still present, Kangal Shepherd Dogs show the same traits which are represented by their ancestors.

GENERAL APPEARANCE AND CHARACTER:
The Kangal is a molossus type dog. Its constitution is robust, even rough. Compact body is covered with thick hair. Body is of rectangular shape.
Height: Height at the withers is 65-78 cm with +/- 2 cm tolerance.
Important proportions: Head length is 39-40% of height at the withers. Skull length is 56-60% of head length. Profile lines of the nozzle and the skull are divergent. Body length is 10-12% greater than height at the withers.
Temperament: Harsh while guarding the entrusted property or flock, otherwise benign and of a peaceful temperament, bold and dignified. Loyal to the master and completely calm in his presence. Fearless and unbribable.

1. HEAD
1.1. Skull: must not be flat. Should be rounded from all sides. Orbital arches are visible but are not overly pronounced. The furrow in the forehead is visible, but not deep. Occiput is visible but not overly expressed. Head width is 52-57% of head length. Length of the skull along the longitudinal axis is greater than width of the skull along the transversal axis. The skull gradually narrows towards the facial region.
1.2. Stop: stop angle is well over 90 degrees. Stop is clear but not overly pronounced.
1.3. Muzzle: is shorter than the skull. Nozzle length is 40-44% of head length. Nozzle width in the area where skull region turns to nozzle region is 24-38% of head length. Muzzle depth in that area is 32-36% of head length. Muzzle is in the shape of a blunt wedge that is lightly tapering towards the nose. Nozzle line from stop towards the nose is gently sloped.
1.4. Nose: must not be above or under the nozzle line. It must be large with nostrils of sufficient size. Nose and the inner side of the nostrils must be pigmented. All dogs should have dark pigmentation.
1.5. Lips: must be well adhering to the bone basis. Are of medium thickness. The upper lip slightly overhangs over the lower lip. Joining of the lips is weakly pronounced. Lower lip must be tight, well-adhering to the lower jaw, and must not be hanging. Edges and mucous membranes of the lips must be pigmented.
1.6. Jaws/Teeth: Jaws must be well developed and powerful. Teeth are regularly arranged in the jaws. Powerful teeth. Scissors bite, pincer bite or reverse scissors bite are accepted. Lack of first premolars (P1) does not affect the assessment.
1.7. Eyes: large, almond-shaped. Neither bulging nor sunken. Eye color must be in accordance with hair color. Darker eyes are more desirable. Eyelids adhere to the eyeballs tightly. Eyelid rims should be pigmented. Gaze should be calm and fearless.
1.8. Ears are set at the height of an imaginary line that connects the tip of the nose with the inner corner of the eyelids, or slightly lower. Ears are triangular in shape. Hair color on the ears is preferred to be the same as hair color of the mask. Front edge of the ears, if not cropped, should overlap the head.

2. NECK
Of medium length, 35-40% of height at the withers. Upper line of the neck is slightly rounded, while the lower line is straight. The angle that the neck forms with a horizontal line should be 35-40 degrees. The neck is merging to the body and head without sharp transitions. Skin on the neck must be tightly attached to the muscular base. No dewlap.

3. BODY
3.1. General appearance: the body must not be squat in appearance. It must be muscular, well connected and balanced. Body length is 10-12% greater than height at the withers. It is a breed characteristics that the dogs are high at the rear, as the rump is up to 4% higher than the withers. Back line, form the withers to the rump is not straight, but slightly sagging. Midpoint of the back is 4-5% lower than the withers.
3.2. Withers: Powerful, well connected and mildly prominent.
3.3. Top line: must be strong and broad, not too long. In motion, top line should be as still as possible.
3.4. Thoracic section of the back: Muscular, powerful, well connected to the withers and loins.
 3.5. Loins: Powerful, short, may be a bit longer in bitches. Observed from the side, slightly convex. Muscular, well connected to the thoracic section of the back and croup.
3.6. Croup: Of medium length, 30-35% of height at the withers. Muscular, well connected to the loins. Croup line and horizontal line form an angle of 25-30 degrees.
3.7. Ribcage: must be spacious. Ribcage circumference is 10-15% larger than the height at the withers. Chest depth is 33-45% of height at the withers. Chest width (measured behind the shoulder blades) is 27-37% of height at the withers. Ribs are powerful and never barrel shaped.
3.8. Chest: muscular and strong. Tip of the chest bone is at 65-75% of height at the withers.
3.9. Bottom line and belly: Belly is slightly recessed. Bottom line slowly rises from the sternum profile to the hips.

4. TAIL
Upper line of the tail forms a continuous line with the croup line. Ideally the tail set shoud be level with the height of the croup, but it may also be  5-10% lower (than height of the croup). Tails is very powerful at the base, while its thickness gradually decreases towards the tip. When relaxed, it reaches the hock hanging down vertically, though it appears shorter as it is slightly curved at the tip. Curvature of the last third can be so strong that it can form a circle. In action preferably the tail is carried higher than the back line  forming a circle. (This circle may also touch the medial line of the back, may be carried behind the back without touching it or  may be carried almost vertical with the last third forming the circle at the tip.) Curved tail shouldn’t be carried on the side of the body below the back line.

5. LIMBS
5.1. Forequarters: Bones of forequarters are powerful. The carpal circumference is 20-22 % of the height at withers. Muscles are lean and hard. Forequarters are parallel. Elbow height is 50-55% of height at the withers.
 5.1.1. Shoulders: Of medium length, adheres to the body well. Forms an angle of 45-55 degrees with the horizontal. Shoulder angle is 90-110 degrees.
5.1.2. Upper legs: Must be muscular and strong. Leans to the body. Upper legs are parallel.
5.1.3. Lower legs: Bones are strong and muscles are well developed. Elbow is located in the line that is parallel to the medial vertical plane of the body. Elbow angle is 110-130 degrees. Elbows should be kept very tight to the body and shouldn’t be loose.
5.1.4. Front feet: Located at the extension of the vertical line of the lower leg. Must be strong and well connected.
5.1.5. Front pastern: Observed from the front, pasterns are located on the vertical line that passes through the lower leg axis. It forms an angle of 20-30 degrees with the vertical.
5.1.6. Paws: Roundish. Fingers must be strong, rounded, and not splayed. Nails are pigmented darkly. In dogs with lighter hair color, nails should be lighter. Cushions must be elastic, full, firm, and pigmented. Swimming skin is developed.
5.2. Hind quarters: parallel relative to each other. They must be strong, but not too heavy. Stance must be regular, with adequate angles.
5.2.1. Loins: wide, muscular and powerful. Length of the loins is 33% of height at the withers. Loins are parallel respective to each other, as well as to medial axis of the body. Loins form an angle of 55-75 degrees with the horizontal.
5.2.2. Lower leg: Muscular, strong. Lower legs are parallel relative to each other. Lower legs form an angle of 110-145 degrees with the upper leg (knee).
5.2.3. Hock: Must be firm and wide and end at the rear pastern harmonically. Height of the hock (from the ground level to the joint) is 25-35% of height at the withers. Hock angle is 120-150 degrees.
5.2.4. Rear pastern: Strong and well developed. Height varies depending on height of the hock. Presence of dewclaws is possible.
5.2.5. Rear feet: A bit more elongated than the front feet, other characteristics identical with those of the front feet.

6. GAIT
Gait must be elegant and harmonic. There should be no jerks or spasms in motion. Back line should be as still as possible during movement. Arching of the back during movement is not tolerated. Kangal's favorite gait is trot of medium length, while gallop is not characteristic. However, If the dog gallops, then the jumps are long but the gallop is stolid. Final grade of dogs with bad gait should be lowered regardless of the exterior.

7. SKIN
Of medium thickness, well adhering to the head and body. Must not form a dewlap. skin color depends on hair color, but skin must be pigmented.

8. MUCOUS MEMBRANES
All visible mucous membranes must be pigmented. Intensity and color of the pigmentation depend on color of the dog. Dark pigmentation is preferred with all accepted colors of the breed.


9. HAIR
Thick and lush. Covers the body well. A bit shorter on the head and legs than on the body. It should not be silky or thin. It should be firm. Undercoat is thick and finer than the upper coat. Length of hair at the withers is 3-7 cm, depending to the season.

10. COLOR
Color should be from crème to dark gray in all nuances. Base white color is not allowed.   Body is of a solid color. Lighter color is possible on the legs, with acceptable darker flecks or spots. Brindle is allowed but is not desirable. White color is allowed only on the chest and the tip of the tail, wherein the diameter of the white field on the chest is not larger than 10 cm. Presence of the mask on the head is obligatory. The mask should be black up to the eye level and lighter on the skull. Preferably the ears are black like the mask. Tip of the tail may be white or black, but colored in such way no longer than 5 cm, observed from the tip to the base.

FAULTS:
Any departure of the foregoing points must be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

ELIMINATING FAULTS :
  • Overshot and undershot bite, wry mouth
  • Monorchism
  • Absence of more than 2 of the P2
  • Absence of any teeth than P1 and P2
  • ectropion, entropion
  • Sable tail without the circle
  • All hair colors than the above described.
  • Aggressiveness
  • Colored and / or differently colored eyes.
 The above excerpt is from Köpek Irkları ve Köpek Bilimleri Federasyonu ( KIF )

 

Friday, 11 July 2014

How Commercial Pet Food Is Killing Your Dog

What a beautiful Saturday! I had just bathed and sunbathed my Kangal dog. In some previous articles, we talked about the best natural food, served it raw is the KING. However, many of us live in urban areas, food preparation at times could be quite troublesome with hectic lifestyles. So how can we do it? If you love your dogs, just like your own kids, you have to plan ahead. Once a week, take a few hours to prep their whole week's supplies and put them in freezer.You can break it down into smaller packets for daily use, it's simpler in this way to defrost and feed your dogs. You can various type of topping, use your own imagination! Or you can write us, we will share with you how we feed them raw delicious mouth watery food :)



How Commercial Pet Food Is Killing Your Dog
                                           (Source from Bulgarian Forum)


Would you feed your family a meal made with condemned beef? Or spray the children’s tea with rancid fat collected from a deep-fat fryer? Or serve biscuits made with empty grain hulls swept from a factory floor?

The unpalatable truth is that if you give your dog processed dog food - dried, tinned or in a pouch - you may be feeding them substances that cause them serious, possibly fatal, harm.

In a Channel 5 documentary this week, I am one of a number of canine nutrition experts who accuse the big dog food manufacturers of knowingly shortening the lives of millions of dogs a year.

The big businesses selling us processed dog food use ingredients unsuitable for human consumption - and unsuitable, in my view, for canine consumption.

They make vast profits from something that would otherwise be thrown away. It is a consumer scandal waiting to happen.

We all know there is a connection between our diet and health. The same applies to dogs, and every other species on the planet. But what is the best, most biologically appropriate diet for dogs?

The diet your dog should be eating is that of a grey wolf in the wild. If you dissect a dog and a grey wolf you’ll find that their digestive systems are identical. The two animals are essentially the same species and so closely related that they can interbreed.

Grey wolves live on prey such as deer, rabbits and mice, and eat everything including the bones, from which they get about a third of their nutrition. They also eat fruit and vegetables.

In short, their diet consists of raw meat, raw bones and raw herbage. This, then, is the diet that allows dogs to achieve optimum health and longevity.

Only recently have dog food manufacturers persuaded us otherwise. I believe nine out of ten visits to the vet are caused by dogs being fed the wrong diet.

The quality of ingredients in most dog food is appallingly low, often including meat that has gone off.

But the worst thing is that it has been cooked and it contains a great deal of grain. The cooking kills off important enzymes - chemicals responsible for thousands of vital metabolic processes - in the food, and alters its structure, making it hard for the dog to digest.

Grain changes the pH (acidity) balance in the dog’s stomach, also causing health problems. When dogs eat grain almost all goes in one end and out the other.

In short, processed dog food has the same effect on dogs as junk food has on humans.

Manufacturers will tell you the canine digestive system has changed over time to be able to derive benefit from grain, but processed dog food came into existence 153 years ago and has been popular only since the end of World War II.

Paleontologists believe it takes, on average, 100,000 years for a species to adapt to a new diet. Dogs have five types of teeth, but none suitable for grinding food.

Humans have digestive enzymes in our saliva and we need to chew our food before we swallow it to give those enzymes a chance to start breaking down the food.

Dogs can’t chew this way because they are unable to move their jaws from side to side. All their digestive processes take place in their stomachs.

You may think your dog gulps his or her food because they are greedy, but they are just trying to get it to where all the digestive action occurs as fast as possible.

If you believe TV commercials, advertisements and labels, processed food is the only safe thing to feed a dog. It contains nothing but ‘natural goodness’, has been ‘scientifically formulated’ and is endorsed by experts.

But a good way to understand the dog food industry is to study its history. Modern dog food was invented by James Spratt, who launched the first complete dog food - a biscuit made of wheat meal, vegetables and animal blood - in England in 1860.

Mill owners saw its potential as a way of selling their unwanted by-products (basically floor sweepings) and low-cost meat off-cuts at a much higher price than they’d otherwise achieve.

From day one, dog food producers made extravagant claims for their products and paid vets for endorsements. Little has changed in more than 150 years.

There is considerable British and European legislation controlling the manufacture of dog food, but this quote, taken from the guidance given to pet food manufacturers, demonstrates how little the government cares about the dogs themselves: ‘For pets, the main part of the risk assessment when setting maximum permitted levels for undesirable substances will generally be the extent to which the animal can tolerate them.’

In other words, it is legal to use ‘undesirable substances’ in dog food if they don’t do the animal immediate harm.

Another disturbing quote from the same guide refers to: ‘The material of animal origin used by the pet food industry comprises those parts of animals which are either deemed surplus to human consumption or are not normally consumed by people in the UK.’

This lets manufacturers make their food from by-products such as hooves, tails, testicles, ears and so on.

Take kibble or dry dog food. The ingredients (mostly corn and ground meat) are heated to a very high temperature and turned into a sort of grey mulch. It tastes so foul it has to be sprayed with fat to make it palatable to dogs.

Dogs eating a natural, raw food diet can be expected to live longer and suffer less illness and disease.

Such a diet would include meaty bones, lean muscle meat and internal organs from chicken, lamb, beef, rabbit and pork; eggs; cheese, cottage cheese, yoghurt, milk and butter; and fatty fish such as herring, salmon and sardines.

Also, plants and root vegetables such as spinach, cauliflower, broccoli, carrots and parsnips. Fresh and dried fruits - but not grapes - are also excellent components of a raw diet.

Feeding your dog this way will also help with behavioural issues. Processed food (dried, tinned or in a pouch) can make a dog hyperactive, lethargic and irritable.

Dogs on a natural diet are calmer, more attentive, easier to train and generally better behaved. They suffer less disease, live longer, smell nicer and produce less waste matter.

I gave my own dog, Honey, processed food until five years ago, when an enlightened vet told me I was shortening her life and explained what she should eat.

After switching her to a natural diet I was so amazed by the difference in her health I started doing it for friends’ dogs.

Now the company I named after her, Honey’s, feeds 3,000 dogs a month. Today, I would no more feed her processed food than I would let my children have junk food and fizzy drinks for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The Truth About Your Dog’s Food is on UK Channel 5 on Thursday at 9pm. Jonathan Self is author of Honey’s Natural Feeding Handbook for Dogs.

Thursday, 3 July 2014

Hip Dysplasia Statistics: Check Out Your Breed



What’s Hip Dysplasia In Dogs

Healthy Hip Joint
Radiographs (X-rays) of a normal dog's pelvis and hips. The head of the femur (arrow) is seated deeply within the acetabulum, indicating excellent hip joint congruity. (Above picture reference from vethospital.tamu.edu)

It’s an abnormal development and growth of a dog’s hip joints, where commonly known as “Ball & Socket” in its more severe form which eventually leads to canines crippling, lameness and extremely painful. This will cause further development of osteoarthritis of the joints. 

Hip Dysplasia (HD) is unfortunately found in almost all breeds, particularly the larger breeds. HD is a hereditary developmental disease and the most common cause of arthritis of the hips.

The severity of HD differs from a slight abnormality to a very severe condition e.g. ball-socket dislocation.

 Degenerative Joint Disease
X-rays of a mature dog with degenerative joint disease secondary to chronic hip dysplasia. The head of the femur (arrow) and acetabulum are severely arthritic, as evidenced by the flattened femoral head, thickened femoral neck, numerous osteophytes, and shallow, sclerotic acetabulum. (Above picture reference from vethospital.tamu.edu)

No one could tell visually whether a puppy would develop HD at the early stages. Normally a dysplastic dog was born with normal hip joints, not until they undergo changes as the dogs mature. Having said the cause is hereditary, HD can be made worse and affected by environmental factors. Commonly known factors are rapid growth due to overfeeding and excessive exercises.

How can we reduce the chances of HD to a minimum? X-ray diagnosis, strict breeding regulations and breeding records would help to minimise the incidence of HD. 

Different countries have different scales for reporting the results of veterinary examination of X-rays
FCI
A1
A2
B1
B2
C
D
E
OFA
Excellent
Good
Fair
Borderline
Mild
Moderate
Severe
BVA
0-4 (no score - <3/hip)
5-10 (no score-<6/hip)
11-18
19-25
26-35
36-50
51-106
Note: Not all FCI countries divide A and B into A1,A2, B1, B2 

Hip Dysplasia by Breed (Statistics)

Below Research and Studies carried out by Othopedic Foundation For Animal



Breeds having at least 100 evaluations January 1974 through December 2013
  All Data Born 2006-2010
Breed Rank Number of Evaluations Percent Excellent Percent Dysplastic Number Evaluations Percent Excellent Percent Dysplastic
BULLDOG 1 564 .4 71.6 98 1.0 61.2
PUG 2 527 .0 68.1 101 .0 80.2
DOGUE DE BORDEAUX 3 463 1.1 56.8 123 2.4 60.2
OTTERHOUND 4 409 .2 50.1 73 1.4 37.0
BOERBOEL 5 147 6.8 47.6 73 6.8 46.6
ST. BERNARD 6 2145 4.2 46.9 118 2.5 50.8
NEAPOLITAN MASTIFF 7 158 2.5 46.8 15 6.7 46.7
CLUMBER SPANIEL 8 928 3.0 44.0 189 4.2 36.0
BLACK RUSSIAN TERRIER 9 560 3.8 43.2 221 4.1 40.3
SUSSEX SPANIEL 10 273 1.5 39.9 26 7.7 30.8
CANE CORSO 11 876 6.8 39.0 231 6.9 38.1
ARGENTINE DOGO 12 210 3.3 38.1 38 2.6 36.8
BASSET HOUND 13 201 .0 37.3 5 .0 20.0
PERRO DE PRESA CANARIO 14 199 5.0 34.7 43 7.0 41.9
NORFOLK TERRIER 15 301 .0 32.9 68 .0 36.8
AMERICAN BULLDOG 16 1825 4.9 32.9 285 5.3 32.6
BOYKIN SPANIEL 17 3283 2.4 32.4 807 5.0 21.2
GLEN OF IMAAL TERRIER 18 174 .6 30.5 57 .0 28.1
FILA BRASILEIRO 19 599 7.5 30.1 12 8.3 66.7
FRENCH BULLDOG 20 1180 2.0 28.6 451 2.2 22.6
SPANISH WATER DOG 21 126 6.3 28.6 42 7.1 26.2
LAGOTTO ROMAGNOLO 22 151 7.9 27.8 88 8.0 25.0
AMERICAN STAFFORDSHIRE TERRIER 23 3020 2.4 26.0 293 4.4 22.9
BLOODHOUND 24 2875 2.8 25.6 269 4.8 19.0
NEWFOUNDLAND 25 15501 8.6 25.0 1623 15.5 20.0
MAINE COON CAT 26 1110 4.1 24.4 95 3.2 29.5
AMERICAN PIT BULL TERRIER 27 775 5.8 24.3 92 5.4 23.9
BERGER PICARD 28 111 5.4 24.3 77 3.9 24.7
BULLMASTIFF 29 5654 3.9 24.2 648 5.9 20.1
LOUISIANA CATAHOULA LEOPARD 30 584 12.0 21.6 132 22.7 12.9
ENGLISH SHEPHERD 31 378 11.1 21.4 104 20.2 13.5
CARDIGAN WELSH CORGI 32 1997 3.2 20.4 441 1.6 21.1
ROTTWEILER 33 94253 8.4 20.2 4562 14.3 15.0
CHESAPEAKE BAY RETRIEVER 34 12947 12.5 20.2 1155 20.3 13.2
GOLDEN RETRIEVER 35 136408 4.3 19.5 12737 9.0 13.1
MASTIFF 36 11016 7.9 19.4 1286 10.5 17.2
NORWEGIAN ELKHOUND 37 3884 7.5 19.4 278 15.1 14.4
SHIH TZU 38 631 1.9 19.3 24 .0 12.5
CHOW CHOW 39 5353 7.3 19.2 336 14.9 16.7
GERMAN SHEPHERD DOG 40 107698 4.0 19.0 9936 7.2 17.8
GORDON SETTER 41 6154 9.0 19.0 437 19.7 10.1
PEMBROKE WELSH CORGI 42 11298 3.1 18.8 1467 3.3 17.9
PYRENEAN SHEPHERD 43 135 4.4 18.5 36 5.6 11.1
OLD ENGLISH SHEEPDOG 44 10779 11.9 18.4 523 22.0 9.8
ICELANDIC SHEEPDOG 45 303 12.2 18.2 113 16.8 16.8
HYBRID 46 1522 8.9 18.0 639 9.2 16.0
GREATER SWISS MOUNTAIN DOG 47 2804 13.9 18.0 599 24.5 12.0
FIELD SPANIEL 48 1066 9.2 17.8 230 12.6 11.7
KUVASZ 49 1774 14.3 17.8 137 31.4 8.8
BEAGLE 50 919 2.6 17.8 173 2.9 13.9
GIANT SCHNAUZER 51 4431 10.1 17.7 298 16.1 11.4
CHINOOK 52 688 9.9 17.3 190 16.8 12.1
SHILOH SHEPHERD 53 834 9.1 17.0 254 13.4 8.3
STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER 54 601 1.8 17.0 116 2.6 11.2
AFFENPINSCHER 55 315 4.1 16.8 75 5.3 14.7
WELSH TERRIER 56 115 5.2 16.5 23 .0 34.8
HAVANA SILK DOG 57 196 2.0 16.3 98 4.1 8.2
ENGLISH SETTER 58 10590 10.6 15.9 1100 20.7 9.5
SPINONE ITALIANO 59 1224 18.1 15.9 260 26.9 15.0
EPAGNEUL BRETON 60 159 5.0 15.7 77 5.2 13.0
BERNESE MOUNTAIN DOG 61 18180 13.9 15.7 3840 20.8 12.0
ENTLEBUCHER 62 321 4.4 15.6 64 6.3 6.3
AUSTRALIAN CATTLE DOG 63 3642 4.7 15.4 596 5.2 13.3
POLISH LOWLAND SHEEPDOG 64 513 9.4 15.2 92 15.2 10.9
CURLY-COATED RETRIEVER 65 1176 8.6 15.1 132 15.9 9.1
BOUVIER DES FLANDRES 66 8271 6.2 15.0 681 12.8 9.5
HARRIER 67 331 8.8 14.8 46 6.5 4.3
TIBETAN MASTIFF 68 984 8.0 14.8 178 10.7 14.0
BRITTANY 69 18524 8.9 14.4 1767 13.6 8.0
BLACK AND TAN COONHOUND 70 710 10.3 14.4 64 17.2 7.8
LEONBERGER 71 1778 20.1 14.2 357 23.5 9.8
LABRADOODLE 72 288 10.1 14.2 198 11.1 14.1
BRIARD 73 2462 13.2 14.1 305 19.0 8.2
BEAUCERON 74 411 14.6 13.4 93 14.0 11.8
CHINESE SHAR-PEI 75 9654 9.2 13.2 436 12.8 7.6
NORWICH TERRIER 76 873 6.6 13.1 346 7.2 11.3
AKITA 77 16404 19.1 12.8 877 35.0 5.1
ENGLISH SPRINGER SPANIEL 78 15165 9.0 12.8 1797 12.6 8.1
CAVALIER KING CHARLES SPANIEL 79 6575 4.0 12.5 1478 4.3 11.2
PORTUGUESE WATER DOG 80 8187 14.3 12.5 1637 20.5 8.9
KOMONDOR 81 983 12.6 12.3 57 31.6 14.0
GREAT DANE 82 12927 11.6 12.0 1659 14.0 10.1
SMOOTH FOX TERRIER 83 353 7.9 11.9 69 8.7 14.5
PUDELPOINTER 84 437 14.4 11.9 81 22.2 3.7
POODLE 85 23702 11.9 11.9 3445 16.7 8.5
WEST HIGHLAND WHITE TERRIER 86 336 2.7 11.9 131 4.6 12.2
IRISH SETTER 87 11415 9.3 11.8 735 18.2 6.4
IRISH WATER SPANIEL 88 1346 17.4 11.7 167 18.0 7.8
LABRADOR RETRIEVER 89 233012 18.4 11.7 25415 25.6 7.9
BOSTON TERRIER 90 222 7.2 11.7 52 9.6 7.7
ALASKAN MALAMUTE 91 14006 17.0 11.4 792 24.5 7.7
AIREDALE TERRIER 92 6032 7.3 11.3 564 8.9 9.0
WELSH SPRINGER SPANIEL 93 2050 15.6 11.3 352 21.9 5.1
BOXER 94 5537 3.6 11.0 726 5.2 9.4
SAMOYED 95 16230 10.7 10.9 1279 19.0 7.1
POMERANIAN 96 101 9.9 10.9 18 11.1 22.2
PETIT BASSET GRIFFON VENDEEN 97 726 4.3 10.9 107 8.4 8.4
BORDER COLLIE 98 11539 13.2 10.6 2252 17.3 7.9
FINNISH LAPPHUND 99 185 10.8 10.3 71 12.7 4.2
PULI 100 1766 16.8 10.2 91 30.8 6.6
ANATOLIAN SHEPHERD 101 1857 18.1 10.2 327 19.3 8.6
HAVANESE 102 3419 9.2 10.0 1302 10.4 6.0
TIBETAN SPANIEL 103 345 7.0 9.9 38 10.5 10.5
WIREHAIRED VIZSLA 104 131 11.5 9.9 62 12.9 4.8
SWEDISH VALLHUND 105 251 5.6 9.6 87 8.0 8.0
AKBASH DOG 106 544 24.3 9.6 43 34.9 9.3
AMERICAN ESKIMO DOG 107 1036 9.0 9.6 132 16.7 11.4
NORWEGIAN BUHUND 108 203 11.8 9.4 49 16.3 2.0
CAIRN TERRIER 109 108 2.8 9.3 18 .0 11.1
GREAT PYRENEES 110 6008 14.4 9.1 427 17.1 8.2
GERMAN WIREHAIRED POINTER 111 4178 16.6 9.0 464 21.6 6.3
DUTCH SHEPHERD 112 234 16.7 9.0 68 13.2 11.8
COTON DE TULEAR 113 753 9.0 8.9 225 10.2 6.2
AUSTRALIAN KELPIE 114 126 10.3 8.7 21 23.8 19.0
WEIMARANER 115 12184 21.3 8.4 1049 28.7 5.1
STANDARD SCHNAUZER 116 4283 8.3 8.4 463 11.4 5.0
SMALL MUNSTERLANDER 117 157 14.6 8.3 45 17.8 2.2
MINI AMERICAN/MINI AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD 118 1563 17.0 8.1 817 18.4 7.0
WIREHAIRED POINTING GRIFFON 119 2104 20.3 8.0 363 19.3 7.4
DACHSHUND 120 100 13.0 8.0 19 10.5 10.5
POINTER 121 1615 14.0 7.8 241 21.6 5.4
AMERICAN WATER SPANIEL 122 766 10.2 7.6 76 17.1 3.9
FRENCH SPANIEL 123 181 18.8 7.2 38 13.2 2.6
BICHON FRISE 124 3613 11.6 7.1 483 14.7 8.1
VIZSLA 125 13985 16.9 6.9 1891 21.5 4.4
YORKSHIRE TERRIER 126 103 35.0 6.8 29 34.5 6.9
SCHIPPERKE 127 465 9.7 6.7 63 11.1 12.7
BULL TERRIER 128 106 11.3 6.6 0 .0 .0
COCKER SPANIEL 129 13264 10.8 6.5 1458 13.2 5.3
NOVA SCOTIA DUCK TOLLING RET. 130 1987 18.5 6.4 532 27.4 3.9
LHASA APSO 131 814 14.7 6.4 6 83.3 .0
KEESHOND 132 4795 9.1 6.4 477 14.7 4.2
DOBERMAN PINSCHER 133 15761 18.0 6.1 1662 19.2 5.0
BEARDED COLLIE 134 4542 16.6 5.9 414 27.5 2.7
AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD 135 32843 16.6 5.8 4791 21.5 4.5
AFGHAN HOUND 136 6799 29.8 5.7 398 38.4 3.5
ENGLISH COCKER SPANIEL 137 7039 19.0 5.7 763 29.1 4.6
FINNISH SPITZ 138 331 17.2 5.7 18 22.2 11.1
SHIBA INU 139 3167 18.7 5.6 513 23.4 4.5
TIBETAN TERRIER 140 4043 30.7 5.6 503 35.4 4.8
KERRY BLUE TERRIER 141 1577 13.2 5.5 154 16.2 2.6
HOVAWART 142 148 25.7 5.4 37 32.4 .0
BELGIAN MALINOIS 143 2767 19.1 5.3 502 23.3 4.2
NORTH AMERICAN SHEPHERD 144 336 16.7 5.1 1 .0 .0
SOFT COATED WHEATEN TERRIER 145 6128 17.1 5.0 545 23.5 4.6
RHODESIAN RIDGEBACK 146 11416 22.3 4.8 1451 27.2 2.3
IRISH WOLFHOUND 147 1829 26.8 4.7 258 26.4 1.9
SHETLAND SHEEPDOG 148 20304 27.6 4.6 2597 33.0 2.8
IRISH RED & WHITE SETTER 149 250 33.2 4.4 78 41.0 6.4
DALMATIAN 150 3506 10.6 4.4 396 17.4 2.0
FLAT-COATED RETRIEVER 151 5618 20.0 4.3 800 27.3 2.4
GERMAN SHORTHAIRED POINTER 152 16026 26.2 4.1 1923 33.3 1.7
EURASIER 153 107 33.6 3.7 56 42.9 1.8
BORDER TERRIER 154 2724 20.8 3.7 558 26.2 3.2
PARSON RUSSELL TERRIER 155 110 24.5 3.6 17 29.4 5.9
BELGIAN TERVUREN 156 6006 26.3 3.5 703 33.1 2.6
BASENJI 157 2651 23.0 3.5 328 20.1 3.7
TOY AUSTRALIAN SHEPHERD 158 119 25.2 3.4 53 28.3 5.7
RAT TERRIER 159 494 16.2 3.0 183 23.5 3.8
BELGIAN SHEEPDOG 160 4104 32.6 2.9 405 38.8 3.0
COLLIE 161 2973 30.4 2.8 264 37.1 2.7
PHARAOH HOUND 162 485 14.8 2.7 64 17.2 4.7
IBIZAN HOUND 163 367 34.6 2.5 59 33.9 1.7
GREYHOUND 164 351 35.6 2.3 13 38.5 .0
CANAAN 165 450 16.9 2.2 52 19.2 1.9
AUSTRALIAN TERRIER 166 186 5.9 2.2 17 5.9 5.9
SIBERIAN HUSKY 167 17656 33.9 2.0 1215 42.0 1.0
BORZOI 168 864 31.1 1.9 29 41.4 .0
GERMAN PINSCHER 169 396 20.5 1.8 116 16.4 4.3
SALUKI 170 262 42.4 1.5 11 18.2 .0
WHIPPET 171 169 36.7 1.2 28 50.0 .0
ITALIAN GREYHOUND 172 239 59.0 .0 53 60.4 .0